Area 51 has become a part of popular culture. An Air-Force base the government would like to keep a secret is now mentioned in everything from video games to serious news programs like 60 Minutes. In fact, while you seem to hear about Area 51 everywhere, the U.S. government still doesn't even acknowledge that Area 51 exists.

But why all the hype? It is generally accepted that the U2, SR-71 and the Stealth Fighter were tested at Area 51. That is interesting enough, but what has people really intrigued is what is rumored to be there. Namely, alien spacecraft and aliens.

Interestingly, Las Vegas is the closest large city to Area 51. Both places seem to thrive on mystery and illusion and having Las Vegas nearby makes for the ultimate road trip. As we found out, gambling, aliens, paranoia, and a fast rental car makes for a wicked combination.

Area 51 is about 140 miles from Las Vegas. It is very easy to get to. From Vegas, take I-15 north to U.S 93, continue north on 93 for 85 miles to NV 375 and head west on NV 375, Nevada's newly christened "Extraterrestrial Highway."

While easy to get to, you still have to prepare. You definitely don't want to wander onto the base by accident. The security guards won't care that you are a UFO fan who is visiting just for fun.

Even though you don't necessarily see much, the drive is still interesting because of the mystery surrounding Area 51. At the very least, you will probably see military aircraft. On our trip, there were flights of B-52 bombers and F-15 fighters that flew low over NV 375.

Most visitors will probably visit the nearby town of Rachel and drive a couple of miles down the base access road. Actually viewing the Area 51 base now requires extensive preparation. Since the military annexed the land that provided easy viewing, you can now only view the base from 30 miles away after a dirt road drive and a strenuous desert hike. The viewpoints are also inaccessible in winter, which was when we visited. In summer, there are some group hikes sponsored by the Area 51 Research Center, the premier source of Area 51 information.

The Area 51 access road is around mile marker 32 on NV 375. You really can't miss it. It is the wide dirt road going off toward a distant ridge. Known as the Groom Lake road, it is in the middle of nowhere and just begs to be driven down.

As we drove down this desert road, which is in unbelievably great shape, we had the strongest urge to continue driving to the base itself so as to see what is really going on. Of course, we would be arrested but maybe we could finally end the mystery.

Then the paranoia set in. After all, this is the 90's. Silly statements such as "Are we being watched?" and "They knew we were here when we got off NV 375" were issued. Actually, people have found sensors near the Groom Lake road. Still, we were determined to continue. If anything, just because it was such a long drive to get here.

Our fool's courage and bravado abruptly ended when we saw a dust trail coming down the ridge to meet us. When we stopped, it stopped. Security Guards in white Jeep Cherokees patrol the area, even on public land, and they have been seen on the Groom Lake road. In the end though, we weren't stopped by security guards but we still met the worst possible fate - it got dark!

Yes, we thought we planned ahead but we took too long that morning to break away from the bright lights of Las Vegas. So, we missed out on a chance to view some of the security signs that can be seen near the base border.

Nearby Rachel, Nevada is also a must see for people visiting Area 51. The Area 51 Research Center, which publishes the Groom Lake Desert Rat magazine, and the Little A'le'inn, with its cool alien logo, are here. The Little A'le'inn restaurant and motel is like an oasis in the desert for UFO enthusiasts. You can eat, drink, buy alien souvenirs and, since this is Nevada, play video poker. Click here for an interview with Pat Travis, owner of the Little A'le'inn.

On the drive back to Las Vegas, we saw the closest thing we saw to a UFO - a fighter jet streaking across the highway, its exhaust and bright green lights clearly visible in the night sky.

A couple of hours later, it was back to the good, the bad and the buffet of Las Vegas. We returned to gambling (will we ever learn?) and, appropriately enough, playing the Area 51 video game at the Excalibur Hotel and Casino.